Escape To Goa Jan 2020
by Pradeep Krishnappa and Rachel Swallwood
Introduction
We are used to the idea that travel is attainable. It wasn't difficult to get visas to most countries, and planes could take you almost everywhere around the globe. Travel bloggers and influencers have become icons of the industry over the last few years, making travel look easy and simple. The travel industry encompasses 50 million jobs worldwide, and $5 trillion in revenue was expected for the year 2020-21. Most countries consider tourism to be a major contributor to economic growth.
Who could have predicted that a pandemic like this would occur, halting this global economic development? At Escape To…by Fairkonnect the safety of our travellers will always be our top priority. We did crisis management just before the lockdown and have been in touch regularly with our travellers about the present situation in the travel industries.
Experts from the industry have predicted that travel will resume in phases, at least for the next 12 months: Phase 1- from June to September will be business mandatory travel, that may see a bit of efflux. Phase 2- October to January will be solo and family travel post vaccine and virus control. January 2021 onwards will be luxury and adventure travel. Clearly, leisure and adventure holidays are the worst hit.
Our company plans to focus on our clients for the rest of the year, to engage with them positively and energetically, while we're waiting for the world to safely reopen. In the meantime, we can plan, we can share, we can read and we can reminisce… We are going to bring you a series of stories about our 2020 trips, before the COVID 19 lockdown.
Escape To Goa…. 2020
In January 2020, Escape To...by Fairkonnect hosted a vegan yoga retreat with Erin Doppelt, an international spiritual educator, wellness speaker and retreat leader. During our time together we focused on yoga classes, meditation and chakra workshops, vegan food, and adventures exploring Goa’s unique heritage and nature.
Goa was still a province of Portugal as recently as 1961! It was ruled by the Portuguese for over 450 years, until the Indian army won it in a 36-hour battle. Goan culture, cuisine and architecture are understandably heavily influenced by the Portuguese. Goa’s beaches were one of the factors that made it a popular destination, and unfortunately tourism started to develop around oceanside partying and raves instead of its rich fusion of culture. We offered our 13 travellers from 4 different countries a different perspective.
Over the course of the vegan yoga retreat, we began our days with (Yoga) asanas. Erin led a hatha yoga and kriya practice every morning for 90mins, followed by a silent breakfast. Although some were skeptical of the silent breakfasts at first, most enjoyed having the time and space to continue sinking into their practices, often with journals in tow. It also helped the group to practice mindful eating, being conscious of every bite and swallow. This was no easy feat considering the buffets of freshly squeezed juices, idly, local breads, dal, fresh fruits, polli, poha, sambar and upma we were served every day. After breakfast we'd explore all that Goa has to offer in the comfort of our eco-friendly mini-bus.
DAY 1 | The Adventure Begins
We began our program in the Yoga Shala where Erin led the group through post-travel poses to help get over the jet lag. We focused on the first chakra and grounded ourselves in our new surroundings. After introducing ourselves to one another, we had a cleansing sage ceremony and set our intentions for what we’d like to gain from our time together in Goa.
Later that evening we had our inaugural dinner at a beautiful beachside restaurant in Mandrem. The food was a divine interpretation of the local cuisine, prepared to be vegan friendly. Conversations flew from one table to another and it was clear that although these women were from different parts of the world, they would become fast friends.
DAY 2 | Heritage visit, Temples, Folk Dance and Traditional Home Cooked Food
For our first full day together we focused on the second chakra in our morning practice. In Sanskrit it is called Svadhistana, which means "sweetness." As the center of pleasure and desire, we honed in on what we want out of life, what brings us joy, and how we can tap into that sweetness every day.
After a breakfast feast, we hopped on our bus. The first stop of the day was at the Arvalem Caves. The travelers were all wowed by the laterite hill, where the excavation and inscription “Sambapuravsi Ravi” dates back to the 6th century! The meaning is "synchronization of Shiva and Surya," the Hindu God and Goddess. The Shrine is a Pitha (Seat or Bench) with enshrined Linga (form of Shiva) in the form of cylindrical top and square bottom.
For our second stop, we headed to a local village where a traditional dance and lunch was planned for the group. We experienced an exclusive demonstration of their folklore exhibited through chanting, grinding grains, musical instruments and coordinated movement. The words of the chants were passed down for so many generations in a language that is no longer spoken, so no one knows their true meaning! But they keep the tradition alive every time they come together to grind grains for making bread, chapati, etc.
The delicious, and naturally vegan, traditional lunch we enjoyed deserves some elaboration. The culinary traditions in Goa are regionally divided in to Hindu, Muslim and Latin Catholic. The food that we tried today was Hindu Goan style. It uses tamarind and kokum to add sour notes, and jaggery for sweetness. The main spices are asafoetida, fenugreek, curry leaves, mustard with urad dal/lentils as their accompaniment. It is not very spicy, with a little bit of onion and garlic, but lots of coconut. They use varied vegetables like pumpkins, gourds, bamboo shoots, roots, etc. depending on the season. It was such an authentic local experience with 100% traditional vegan food.
After lunch we headed towards northern Goa to Brahma Karmali. This temple is one of only two Brahma temples in India. What better place to meditate than a Brahma temple? As a group we practiced a mindfulness meditation: in a seated position, we closed our eyes and visualized feelings rooted into the earth, safe and secure.
On our way back, we visited Kaavi Art, a small village temple adorned with the Konkan Coast's unique Kaavi Art. Temples in India are usually very colorful and ornate so this monochromatic design, using red hematite and lime powder, was very unique.
DAY 3 | Beach Bumming and Latin Quarters
Today's yoga and meditation focused on the third chakra and its fiery yellow principles. As the center of our personal power and will, we meditated on the question: What do I want to bring into the world?
The group was all fired up after the encouraging chakra session. We were excited and ready to explore the famous Anjuna beach known for its food, flea markets and beachfront hangouts. In no time some travelers went right into the sea, some were soaking in the sun, and some hung out at the best beach cafes and shacks. We found an amazing cafe overlooking the sea that served vegetarian and vegan friendly food that we couldn't resist trying!
With a few hours of daylight left we headed towards Panjim City. We started to walk around Panjim and explored the Fontainhas Latin Quarter by foot. The area became a residential development in the 18th century, when headquarters of the Portuguese government were shifted to Panjim from Old Goa. Fontainhas was declared a UNESCO Heritage Zone in 1984. This was really a hidden hive in the busy city. We didn't want to miss the wall graffiti in the Latin quarters' well-maintained Chapel of Saint Sebastian. Built in 1800, it sits at the southern end of Fontainhas and has a number of interesting artifacts inside. As we headed North, we came across the unique architecture and white design of the Lady of Immaculate Conception Church. A Goan gem built in 1609, it was a perfect example of Portugal's lasting influence.
For dinner we had south Indian dosas. Our travelers were very surprised to find out how different and tasty these crepe-like savory dishes were here compared to the dosas they'd tried before in their home countries. With full bellies, the group made its way to one of the oldest bars in the city. It had a great ambience and live Indo-Portuguese music. To get the full Indian experience it's important to have the local drinks AND the local food. We downed a few chilled Kingfisher beers, and called a round of shots to cap off the day.
DAY 4 | Beaches, Flea Markets, Beers
Moving up the spinal column, we focused on the heart chakra. This energy center presides over love, compassion, and connections. As the middle point between the upper and lower chakras, it is also connected to the balance of forces, and equilibrium. Love for others must first come from love of self (you can't pour from an empty cup!) so we focused on how to practice self-love. Given a free day, we were able to explore whatever would make our hearts happy. For a lot of our travelers, that meant shopping!
Goa is home to some of the most diverse shopping experiences in India. In the rest of the country you’ll see malls, boutiques and outlets of every kind, but if you’re looking to pick up a unique piece or bargain, you could spend a whole day exploring Arambol's flea markets. We spent a languorous afternoon feeling the sea breeze in our hair and soaking in the sun browsing through the hundreds of stalls that decorate Arambol every week. It's the perfect place to buy all of your beachwear, and most are made out of sustainable natural fabrics. If you're in the market for macrame, dreamcatchers, tribal marks, gypsy headgear, bamboo sling bags and summer dresses or jewelry, you can’t miss these colorful shops. The highlight of the market was one talented seamstress who makes dresses, shrugs, beach cover-ups, kurtas and more out of old saris! If you like a bit of kitsch in your wardrobe and don’t mind embellishments, her beach cover-ups are amazing. The icing on the cake is that if you have an old sari you want converted into a dress or accessories, she just takes one day to stitch it- if you're really lucky she might even do it on spot. Her shop is at the end of the market overlooking the beach, and we were definitely jealous of her "office" view!
We had dinner at a beautiful veg restaurant that was just a few yards away from the beach. We indulged in a four-course meal of shakes, pastas with vegan cheese, rice, veggies, soups, salads, enchiladas with guacamole, raw mango pie, and, our favorite, spinach mushroom momos.
DAY 5 | Organic Spice Farm
We had an early wake up call to get to Tanshikar's Working Spice Farm & Ecological Rest House in South Goa. Situated among the rainforest of Western Ghats at Netravali village, Sanguern Taluka, the specialty organic farm is home to a variety of genuine spices grown on 25 acres of land. Since 2005, owners Chinmay and Gauri have opened up the farm to guests to explore and learn about organic farming. The husband and wife duo have been carrying forward the legacy of their family's organic farming tradition, originating long before 'organic' was a buzzword. At Tanshikar Spice Farm we learned how different types of spices grow and also tested out tasty recipes made with ingredients grown at the farm. Our travelers loved the hands-on cooking class, and learning how to cook traditional South Goan cuisine with the freshly grown spices and vegetables. The focus was on lip-smackingly delicious vegetarian and vegan friendly dishes, all with their own health benefits. Gauri made sure all the ingredients are well explained and understood by our guests. We made: Narli bhat (rice prepared with coconut and Jaggery), Goan dal, chapati and pineapple curry. Gauri gave us all goodie-bags filled with traditional Goan masalas and recipes that we couldn’t wait to try!
DAY 6 | Marine Conservation and personalized vegan cuisine
Today we focused on the Third Eye center. The sanskrit name is Ajna, which can translate to 'command center' or 'to perceive.' It is the home of our intuition, seeing and imagination. To flex these muscles, we did a beautiful exercise where we sat in a circle, knees touching, and imagined what they wanted in life, like they already had it. The chanting and communal experience was very powerful and moving.
With renewed energy and enthusiasm the group went on a marine conservation tour that was conducted by Terra Conscious. This organization, founded in 2017, is a marine conservation based social enterprise driven by a team of passionate conservationists based out of North Goa. The Ocean Biodiversity Experience is an excellent flagship programme and Goa’s only ethical dolphin watching experience! Their in-depth knowledge of the humpback dolphin, native to the Indian Ocean, and the magnificent marine life is remarkable. The view of the Arabian Sea was stunning, and everyone enjoyed feeling the sea breeze in their hair during the 2 hour boat ride. We were so lucky to have a dolphin sighting!! We also explored the river mouth and that marine habitat. There we learned about the ecological importance of mangrove trees, and spotted some bats and native birds like the Kingfisher.
After being in the heat for 2 hours, there was something really exciting waiting for us… a delicious meal! Of course, food is a very essential part of our trips. Toro Toro Goa is a grillhouse along the pristine Arpora-Baga creek, and the vibe of the decor and music are perfect for a beach holiday. Chef Rohan, one of the best chefs in India, created an exclusive four-course vegan menu for us. We started with curried roasted cauliflower, kafir leaf and coconut soup which was simply perfect to whet our appetites. Our appetizer was spinach falafel with poached beetroot hummus- we knew we had more courses coming but kept going back for more of this one! We had a cooling watermelon, greens, and couscous salad with lemon dressing. And finally, wok tossed burmese curry with noodles absolutely left us all in awe. To say that we were "full"after this meal would be an understatement.
DAY 7 | Hot Air Balloon Adventure !!
This was the most anticipated day of the trip. The sun wouldn’t wait for us; we had a 3am wake up call and a two and half hour drive towards South Goa so that we could experience the sunrise by balloon. Trust us, it was all worth it! Flying in a hot air balloon is an unforgettable experience, and being airborne to see the first light of the day was breathtaking. The amazing 360-degree view illuminated the Deccan Plateau, the Arabian Sea, and the Konkan Forest below. Walking around Goa's historic landscape is a delight; having an aerial view in the soft morning light is another. We kept our cameras and phones poised and ready (but not too close to the edge!) as we sailed over coconut groves and quaint villages.
If you’re afraid of heights, a balloon flight is the best way to face that fear. The peaceful ascent will allow you to get used to your surroundings calmly and gradually. The beautiful views will help you forget everything else, while giving you the sensation of floating. It feels like you are dreaming with your eyes open as you glide through the air. Since you travel with the wind, the only time you feel the breeze is when you change altitude.
The pilot spotted a landing site based on the time and geographical knowledge attained from flying in the area. We were glad that we had experienced and calm pilots who thoroughly explained the process of takeoff and landing. They soothed our anxieties and made us comfortable. Our landing plans changed due to the wind speed and the terrain, which meant we got more time in the air. Of course, none of us were complaining about that!
When we got close enough to the ground, the pilot asked us to crouch down, turn sideways, and bend our knees slightly to soften impact of landing. One group landed so smoothly that they didn't even feel a bump when they touched the ground! Our other groups basket tipped over, but it wasn’t scary- it was all part of the fun! Every balloon flight is going to be unique in its own way; the wind, the terrain and the pilot can make a difference in every ride. But ours were as close to perfection as you can get.
We had a free afternoon to recover from our early morning and met back up for dinner at a beachside cafe. We did our meditation and kriyas practice out on the sand, under the moonlight, listening to the waves crash on the shore. Then we shared a beautiful vegan meal together on a table that was adorned with fresh flowers. It was a divine day.
DAY 8 | Heritage Home, Night Market
This was our last full day together as a group. Erin brought her deck of oracle cards (similar to tarot) and we each picked a card during our morning practice. It was a beautiful and unique way to share our experiences and perspectives together.
In the afternoon we headed to Batim, one of the closest villages to Panjim city, where David Menezes gave us a private tour of the Casa Menezes Heritage Home. Perched between the Pilar Valley and Santa Ana Hillocks, this beautiful property is a perfect time capsule. Overlooking paddy fields and bordered with tall coconut palm trees, the 300 year old ancestral home of the de Menezes family is replete with teak, oak and rosewood carved antique furniture, original art and regal tilework. David told us stories of his family, and how they came to own certain pieces. A few steps away from the property is Batim Lake. A bird watchers paradise, this lake attracts a lot of migratory bird species.
We couldn’t leave Goa without sampling the local drink, Feni. Feni is a traditional liquor distilled from the fermented juice of cashew apples. To begin our meal, David made a special fusion drink for us with a Feni base, freshly crushed sugarcane juice, and chilli. This was a perfectly balanced cocktail that none of us had tried before, or even could’ve imagined before coming to Goa. Another ‘must try’ drink is kokum juice, or sherbet (not to be confused with sherbert!). A native Goan plant, Kokum berries are an essential component of the Goan food culture. Kokum juice is full of health benefits: it regulates blood sugar, protects your liver, helps decrease inflammation, is great for your heart, and could even help fight cancer! We were more than happy to try this purple colored juice.
David served us a vegan lunch prepared in the local Latin style. He explained to us that authentic Goan cuisine is not about fancy equipment and utensils but rather the basic materials like earthenware, clay pots, slow cooking and home-ground fresh masalas with fresh ingredients. We feasted on massive servings of bindi recheado (Goan red masala) fry, bhaji (made from green leafy vegetables), Goan kaju curry (cashew curry), khatkhatem (mixed vegetable curry), and of course, the staple rice.
After such a heavy meal we chilled by the Casa pool before heading to the special Saturday Night Market in Arpora. This is a great place not just for shopping, but also for feeling the Goan ambience. There is live music, bars, and restaurants serving foods ranging from organic salads and chocolate waffles to Greek food and local delicacies. You will find many stalls run by both Europeans and locals, making the ambience distinctively cosmopolitan. It is particularly popular with foreign tourists, and the hippie culture. We were glad we could shop, enjoy some live music, and unwind a bit on our last day in Goa.
Day 9 | Good Bye
With our suitcases full of souvenirs and spices, our minds filled with happy memories, and our hearts full of love and appreciation, we headed our separate ways- some of us back to our homes, some on to adventures in other parts of India, and some to Sri Lanka. One thing is for sure, it was an unforgettable vegan travel adventure that was uniquely Goan!
